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By Jenna Rennert and Calin Van Paris
Ridding our bodies of unwanted or unsightly hair can seem a ceaseless endeavor—but laser hair removal helps to make the process more permanent. While the procedure is by no means an instant cure-all for any and all hair, when employed repeatedly on certain areas of the body, lasers can result in lighter, reduced, and more manageable hair.
“Those seeking laser hair removal should go to a licensed pro with a degree on the wall,” says New York City dermatologist Francesca Fusco, M.D., who recommends a dermatologist, aesthetician, or “someone who is trained by the laser company to handle the machine.” (The treatment can burn or otherwise damage skin when executed incorrectly, so take heed of this advice.) Laseers should also expect several sessions, and price points ranging from $150 to $700 per appointment, depending on the area in question.
Whether you’re after a bikini line that's forever beach-ready, the obliteration of unwanted facial hair, or impossibly, enduringly smooth legs, laser treatments may be the ultimate solution to all of your hair woes.
Seeking silky skin? Read on for everything you need to know about laser hair removal.
As the name suggests, laser hair removal is the vaporization of unwanted hair via specialized lasers employed repeatedly over time. Unlike shaving, which shears hair above the skin, or plucking or waxing, each of which pulls hair up by the root, lasers work to remove hair permanently by targeting the shaft and follicle, reducing melanin and inhibiting growth. However, not all lasers are created equal. There are various kinds, including diode, alexandrite, and Nd:YAG.
“The diode laser is the Mercedes-Benz of all lasers,” says Fusco. “It has a pneumatic head on the device which sucks up the skin and the hair follicle to target the hair more efficiently.” Alexandrite is a good option for those with darker skin tones: “If you have darker skin, you run the risk of getting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” she says. “This laser is safe because it provides the heat needed to disable the follicle but because it comes across through an alexandrite crystal, the wavelength beam of light is less likely to cause pigmentation post-treatment.” The Nd:YAG laser “doesn’t generate a ton of heat so it’s good for small areas like the chin and upper lip,” Fusco says. “However, this method takes longer to achieve results and they’re not always permanent.”
As far as the number of sessions you can expect? “It depends on the client,” says Christian Karavolas, founder of the two-decade-old midtown destination for laser hair removal, Romeo and Juliette, but most see results in as little as two sessions. A full course “is usually anywhere from four to 12 sessions to see permanent results.” Prices range, too. For a small area, like the upper lip, sideburns, or chin, Karavolas averages about $100 to $200 per session, and $150 to $350 for the bikini area. A slightly larger area like the lower legs could cost anywhere from $400 to $700 per session depending on the office.
The most obvious upside of laser hair removal is decreased maintenance. Lasering certain areas of the body eliminates the need for shaving, waxing, and plucking, resulting in a simplified routine. Those who suffer from the discomfort (and general bummer) of ingrown hairs caused by shaving or waxing may consider the laser a less painful route to a hair-free life. Aesthetically speaking, those who struggle with growth placement, patterns, or density will see less, lighter, and more manageable hair—and eventually, with commitment, no hair at all. Plus, though a thorough round of treatments may come with a price tag, if you factor in the dollars that you direct to regular and repeated hair removal services, a more permanent solution may be the most cost-effective choice.
There are some factors to consider ahead of your laser hair removal appointment. “Avoid sunlight and self-tanner,” advises Karavolas. “And, if you’re on antibiotics, be sure to wait at least five days [before coming in].” While most people are good candidates for laser hair removal, Karavolas notes that pregnant women and those on Accutane or any medications that warn against sun exposure should not receive treatment. Experts recommend shaving ahead of each appointment so that the laser can target the root, rather than the end of the hair, and that for facial treatments, makeup should be eschewed.
During your appointment, technicians will clean the area in question. Next, the treatment area is held taut as the laser pulses against the skin, a sensation that one Vogue staffer, who has been getting treatments since she was 15, likens to “fiery rubber band snaps”—though she adds that the pain has lessened over the years.
“Some people find it uncomfortable,” Fusco explains. “But for the most part it is tolerable.” Fusco says some people compare the feeling to static electricity, but it varies from person to person. Numbing cream, cooling gels, and similar devices can also be used ahead of treatment if patients require.
Small areas can take as little as 15 minutes to treat—and while larger areas will require a touch more time, you can expect to be out of the office and on your way within a few hours.
Post-procedure, weakened follicles will begin lead to shedding and an overall thinning of the hair within the treatment area. This doesn’t happen immediately—expect shedding to occur over days or even weeks, and sometimes only after a couple of treatments. (That said, you can expect a 10 to 25% reduction in hair after your initial visit.)
Fusco advises patients to treat the area like they would a sunburn (skip hot baths and showers, and apply aloe). “Avoid sunlight so that post-inflammatory pigmentation does not occur and skip applying retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids.” In between sessions, both professionals advise against waxing or tweezing in favor of shaving. “And wear at least an SPF 30 at all times.”
While you may experience side effects like swelling, redness, and general discomfort post-procedure, these should disappear within a few days. According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, other more serious potentials include blistering and infection (temporary, though expert attention is advised) and skin lightening or darkening, which can be permanent.
Choosing the perfect place and practitioner are a crucial step on the hair removal journey. Here, five of the best places around the country to get rid of hair for good.
New York Francesca Fusco, M.D. 1 E 69th Street 212.249.8118
Romeo and Juliette Laser Hair Removal 5 E 57th Street 212.750.2000
Chicago Quenby Erickson, M.D. 737 N Michigan Avenue, Suite 905 312.300.6858
Los Angeles Ava Shamban, MD 9915 South Santa Monica Boulevard 310.843.9915
Miami Diane Walder, M.D. 1111 Kane Concourse, Suite 100 305.866.2177
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